ADRIEN BERLIOZ / CELLIER DES CRAY
Tucked into the remote corner of the Savioe, in the village of Chignin, quietly grows the well tended vines of Adien Berlioz, at Cellier des Cray. There are a scant 4.5ha of vines rooted into the severely steep calcareous-clay soils, sheeted with cascading loose scree, resembling a tiny version of the northern rhone. The slopes are angled enough that nothing can be worked by machine. This suits Adrien, perfectly well. He follows the ideas of ’Äòlutte raisonˆ©e’Äô practices, using chemicals when only necessary. In all other ways, he is organic (or even biodynamic) depending on how he reads the needs of each select parcel. He is a keen reader and humble observer, using his hands for every task of the vineyard and cellar. He is young (just 30yrs old) yet acts with old, paternal wisdom. Because of this, Adrien is able to extract the best qualities of this mountainous scene. He cultivates local varietals of Jacquˆ®re and Mondeuse, as well as a local version of Roussannne. The soils are turned for a healthy bio-culture, using herbs to fertilize in lieu of inorganic products. He hand delivers fruit to the tiny cellar where natural practices encourage slow fermentations and even maturation. He is as patient as he is attentive, allowing the wines to show themselves ready to be bottled. Being remote can lead to isolation but at Cellier des Cray, there is nature to find as good companion. As long as Adrien keeps up the conversation, his wine will remain something to venture out for.
Vin de Savoie Mondeuse 2009
100% Mondeuse from 50-55yr old vines (8000/ha). Hand selected and gentle carried to tank for 12hrs cold maceration. Vinified with only natural yeasts with 2-3 week on skins. Aged in demi-Muid (600L) barrels used 2-3 times prior. Bottled unfiltered.